The Magic Continues…………at Goechala

I had trekked Kedarnath and Yamunotri in Uttarakhand earlier. Both these journeys were primarily religious but the sheer beauty of nature around was a great experience. In July 2011, I trekked Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib, this trek was also partially religious in nature but fascinating. These treks being religious routes were very crowded not only with people but with Mules and Donkeys, and very dirty also.  Meanwhile I went for number of treks in Pune – Mumbai Sahyadri region and my interest in trekking grew. Then I undertook Trek to Roopkund in May 2012. Roopkund trek was magical and I wrote about it earlier. I had planned Roopkund trek months before but trek to Goechala was planned within a week. I was accompanied by my wife but regrettably my daughters could not join us due college commitments. In year 2013, I planned to go to Kalilash Mansarover, registered with Ministry of External Affairs about 6 months in advance. Prepared a lot for trek but due to unfortunate happenings in Uttarakhand, trek was cancelled at last moment. Last year I planned 6 months in advance and prepared a lot for the trek but failed to go and this trek was planned in such a short period that I am now a firm believer of a saying of the hills---You don’t come to the mountains at your Will, they call you at their Will. And so my Magical Journey continues--------This time to Goechala in Sikkim. This journey further reaffirmed my belief that nothing is or can be more beautiful than nature. You can never replicate nature no matter how hard you try. Nature is the best innovative, original creator

We joined India Hikes Batch (4^th October to 14th October) for this trek. There were 28 members in this batch including me and my wife Charoo. The group was a very young bubbly energetic one with most of the members under 30. Mr and Mrs Kulkarni and we were the senior citizens there. Trek leaders from India Hikes was Parth assisted by  Jay Singh and Laboon. Apart from them there were 14 supporting staff which included cooks, porters, yak men etc.

We reached New Jalpaiguri station by train on 4^th  Oct  in the morning.

Route map of trek can be seen on following link. Red line gives approx. route, on zooming in exact route can be seen.     Route Map

DAY 1 – 4^th Oct 2014 – NJP to Yuksom (5670 ft)

We are to reach base camp of our trek -- Yuksom today. Members coming by air were assembling at Bagdogra and those coming by train at NJP station. 13 of us were to start from NJP. The meeting point was near steam engine outside NJP station at 9 am. Since Railways decided to play spoil sport, only 9 of us managed to reach by 9 am. As there were two vehicles arranged for us, it was decided that six of us (Dr Gautum, Arvind, Ashok, Bharat, myself and Charoo) go by the first vehicle. We started our bumpy ride (literally) to Yuksom. We reached Yuksom by 5 pm.  The journey is along the scenic Teesta river. Imposing mountains with Teesta river at the base, green fields with neat boundaries, interesting scarecrows, waterfalls etc were all a visual treat. But all this came with a price. The road is really- really pathetic. You feel as if you are sitting on spring. It really keeps you on your toes. By end of the day, we all were full of dust and drained out. We could feel the temperature difference here. The first thing we did after reaching our homestay (arranged by IH) was to have a bath as the water was still warm (courtesy solar heater).

Home Stay at Yuksom

Some of the members had arrived a day before and some were to arrive. The meeting time was fixed at 8 pm. Since we had time, we had a stroll in the lanes of Yuksom. Yuksom is the first capital of Sikkim. It is a very small and clean hill station with a beautiful Monastery. It has good comfortable homestays, few hotels, eateries and shops selling regular household items and other things of tourist interest. It is so small that you can count the shops on your fingers. It is also the hometown of Bollywood star Danny. Danny has a bungalow there, which the locals proudly point as Danny’s palace.

We met our fellow trekkers at dinner time. The introduction was pretty formal as we all were meeting for the first time. We were briefed by our trek leader with all the do’s and don’ts. Tomorrow was to be the first day of the trek in the real sense.

DAY 2 – 5^th Oct 2014  - YUKSOM (5600 ft)  to  SACHEN (7150 ft) 

We were to start by 8.30 but could start only by 9.30. Apart from usual warming up exercises, we were told about basic things like correct way of holding the trek pole while ascending and descending, synchronising breathing while trekking and many more such useful tits and bits. Today’s trek was an easy trek with well laid out path. The path was full of gradual ascends and descends. After 20-30 minutes of trekking we entered Kanchenjunga National Park.

It had everything waterfalls, gushing river, suspension bridges, small streams which we had to cross and many more visual treats. These small streams and waterfalls were also our source of drinking water; we got to drink the purest mineral water! We reached Sachen camp site at 2.30 pm. Since our yaks had not yet arrived, we had late lunch followed by early dinner. The camp site here was very congested but no other option was available. Today was relatively easy day as height gain was not much.

DAY 3 – 6^th Oct 2014  - SACHEN (7150 ft) to TSHOKHA (9700 ft) via BHAKIM(8600 ft)

Our group was punctual today and we were ready to leave by 8.30 am. We were to reach Tshokha via Bhakim. Trek today was the extension of yesterdays trek. 

Panting and resting, we reached Bhakim after a steep climb quite comfortably where we were greeted by lone restaurant. We had fresh lime water, the taste of which we still cherish. It was sunny today and no streams in between. From Bhakim we took a short cut to Tshokha (which we nicknamed Bhakim bypass). This route was a bit steep but was through thick forest. The sunrays were filtering through the tall trees. We all reached our destination at 1.30pm. Yaks had once again not arrived. Anyway the campsite was very good; trek leaders made us do some easy exercises to relax our muscles. We had tea at the only restaurant there, had a friendly chat with trekkers of other group and visited the monastery. Tshokha has a small well-kept monastery. We fellow trekkers had also opened up, so there was no problem in spending time till the yaks came. Yesterday’s regime of late lunch and early dinner was followed today also.

We had spectacular view of Mt. Pandim (6691mts.) from here.The view of Mt. Pandim along with Mt.Jopuno and Tien Chen Khang basking in sunset glory was cinematic. After sunset we could see the lights of Darjeeling from our campsite. Since it was clear night, we were greeted Good Night by billion of stars lead by almost full moon with snow-capped mountains at the back drop. It was simply heavenly but only a trailer to what we were to witness in coming days..........Picture Abhi Baki Thi!

DAY 4 – 7^th Oct 2014  - TSHOKHA (9700 ft) to DZONGRI(12980 ft) via PHEDANG (12000 ft)

This day is the first difficult day of the trek. Punctuality had now became a habit and all of us were ready to move at 8.30 am. We were given packed lunch for our journey today. Since the trek was long with steep climbs and no water source in between; we were advised to carry 2 litres of water each. It was decided that all of us would meet at Phedang for group rest before proceeding to Deorali where we would have lunch and then head towards Dzongri. Some of the young fast walking trekkers opted to take it easy today and give company to us. I still remember after every steep turn, Arvind calling out to Charoo “aunty aa gaya bas! This is the last leg!”

Phedang

We reached Phedang at 11.15 and after resting for 10-15 minutes we started towards Deorali. We reached there at 1.15 pm. After having lunch, we continued our onward journey to reach DZONGRI at about 3.00pm. Trek after Deorali  was through colourful vegetation, which we had not seen earlier in any of our treks, the colour of the leaves varied from tree to tree. You name the shade of green or red and there was a tree with leaves of that colour.

Valley of colourful trees

Seeing is believing is the best description here. For me it was valley of colourful trees! But we were really strained out due to steady ascent and were taking frequent rests. The beautiful surroundings were also not able to give us respite and we cheerfully panted and puffed to Dzongri. Today we gained more than 3000 ft in altitude. Waiting for Yaks had now become a norm.




DAY 5 – 8^th Oct 2014  - DZONGRI(12980 ft) to THANSING(12900 ft) via KOKCHURANG(12000 ft)

Today was one of the exciting days of the trek. Our group started at 3.30 am to DZONGRI TOP(13675 ft) to witness the first sunrays on Mt. Kanchenjunga. We reached there at about 4.30 am. It was pitch dark and we all moved in a single line. DZONGRI TOP is a sacred place for local people as they offer prayers to Mt. Kanchenjunga from here. The fluttering of prayer flags adds serenity to the atmosphere. Sunrise will take place after some time. There are other groups also there patiently waiting. We can see dots of light moving in a trail below on hills, these were the trekkers on their way up with torches in their hands. Now we realised how cold it is there, our fingers and toes were all freezing! We were getting confused as to which one is Mt. Kanchenjunga among many peaks visible there. A local guide offered the single and simple solution.....mountain tip on which sunrays fall first is Mt. Kanchenjunga. 

The peaks visible from DZONGRI TOP are Mt. Jopuno (19475 ft), Tien Chen Khang (19710 ft), Mt.Pandim (21950 ft), Mt. Kanchenjunga (28170 ft), Mt. Kabru North (25370 ft), Mt.Kabru dome(21650 ft), Mt.Kabru South (24000 ft), Black Kabru (15780 ft) and Rahtong (21910 ft). Peaks were visible in full moon light.

Peaks in Moon light

Sun is about to rise and what we saw there was outright spectacular display of sun rays on snow clad peaks. The peaks began to glow as if of gold. Sun rays make the snow capped peaks and clouds glow as if on fire. The golden light stayed for some time and then began to fade out. Describing it is not possible for me, I won’t be able to do justice....Photographs will do it partially!

Peaks in Sun Light

 We started back from DZONGRI Top at about 6 am and reached our camps at 6.45 am. Its 9.15 am and we were ready for our departure to Thansing via Kokchurang. From Dzongri to Kokchurang we pass through one of the most beautiful section of the whole trek.  We cross the river at Kokchurang and then follow the trail up to Thansing along the river. We cross the river couple of times but never leave its side. Following the river we reach Thansing at about 3.30 pm. Yaks have arrived before us for a change.

Camp at Thansing

Thansing is a very big and beautiful camping site. Camping site is on bank of beautiful river. All are very relaxed today. Tomorrow is a very easy day. All of us wandered here and there before retiring. 

DAY 6 – 9^th Oct 2014  - THANSING(12900 ft) to LAMUNEY(13600 ft)

Morning Tea at Thansing

This day was the easiest day, almost a rest day. We started leisurely and walked leisurely to reach Lamuney by lunchtime. The trek is very easy but full of beautiful surprises. Length of the trek is small but we took time as the scenic beauty compels us to go slow. Weather was not very favourable today. We were greeted by rain followed by hailstorm but it was an experience in itself.

DAY 7 – 10^th Oct 2014 - LAMUNEY(13600 ft) to GOECHALA(16000 ft) and back to KOKCHURANG(12000 ft)

Today was D-day. When we went to sleep last night; it was pitched dark with clouds all around and a visibility of less than 30m. We were to move at 2:30 am in the morning to Goechala but seeing weather conditions it looked difficult. We felt disappointed but with prayers we went for sleep. I incidentally got up at 1: 30 am and came out from my tent to be surprised to see almost clear weather. Instead of 2:30 am we started at 3:30 am and this delay we will always regret. The trek was along the lake Samiti (14100 ft) and through moraines.

Moon Reflection in Samiti

For a considerable distance we moved along with the reflection of moon in the lake. As the moon was almost a circle, the scene was a rare visual treat!  The dew drops on the grass leaves were shinning like diamonds in moonlight. 

Youngsters in the group reached view point 1 (V1) early and could see beauty of morning sun rays on Kanchenjunga and other peaks with moon in the background for a longer time.

I reached there late and could enjoy this view only for 5-10 minutes before the clouds spoiled the whole scene. Clouds became thick and we lost hope of more views and also going further to V2. We just assembled and stayed at V1 for an hour or so in clouds. 




Suddenly as luck would have been, clouds disappeared fast and clear view was visible.

Panoramic view From V1 

As it was long day ahead, only 8 youngsters in our group decided to go further to V2 with trek leader Parth. Rest all of us stayed at V1 for an hour more before starting our journey back to Lamuney.

Samiti lake with reflection of Mountains

On the way, Samiti lake looked fascinating, specially reflection of colourful mountains reminded me of Pangong lake in Leh. We can call Samiti as mini Pangong lake. We were able to spot blue sheep on our way back. Reached back to camp site, after lunch moved for Kokchurang on the same route on which we travelled a day before. Reached  Kokchurang at about 4.30 pm. Today we had to stay in Trekkers hut instead of our tents. Hut had a capacity of only 15 to 20 trekkers and we 28 plus supporting staff stuffed in it and had an uncomfortable night.  

DAY 8 –11^th Oct 2014  - KOKCHURANG (12000 ft) to TSHOKHA (9700 ft)

Jungle trail with snow peaks visible 

This was the surprise element of our trek. The return trek route from Kokchurang to Phedang different from what we followed while going up and is through thick jungle with such a narrow trail that yaks are unable to walk on it; so they went back by the same route via Dzongri by which we had come.

Mind Your Steps

We also had to mind our steps almost all along the trail. So today it was only we trekkers in the jungle with the birds of course. We had to cross the streams couple of times, so the trail went up and down. But no one was complaining .After reaching Phedang it was the same old route. We reached Tshokha at 4 pm. Today it was cloudy here with clouds playing hide and seek with Mt. Pandim, but no one was bothered. Everyone was in Mission Accomplished mode. Not much roaming about, only talking, gossiping, sharing experiences, resting.... Another surprise was a farewell cake made by our cooks!...

Flora and Fauna

DAY 9 – 12^th Oct 2014  - TSHOKHA (9700 ft) to YUKSOM (5600 ft)

Yaks crossing suspension bridge

Today is the last day of our trek. Everyone was in go home mode, end of the holiday mood. SABKO GHAR KE COMFORTS YAAD AANE LAGE THHE.
We were going back on same route. Nearly everyone reached Yuksom by 4:00 pm, hale and hearty. Everyone rushed to have bath......Today’s dinner was our last dinner together as a group where we were given the certificate of completing the trek.


DAY 10 – 13^th Oct 2014  - YUKSOM to NJP

Everyone heading back. So the day was dedicated to good bye hugs and wishes. We started at 9.am with Deba, Nikhil, Harsha, Kumar and Dr. Gautum by vehicle and reached NJP at 4:00 pm., enjoying the same old bumpy ride.  Scene was same as on 4^th oct but no one was much interested in photography or site seeing. Reached NJP with all body parts paining, face swollen but cheerful mind.

  AND WITH THIS ENDS MY MAGICAL JOURNEY.............

Despite deficiencies of IndiaHikes in managing the trek, we felt satisfied as our group of 28 was disciplined, cheerful and accommodating and fortunately no one in the group fell sick. Hats off to our group!

What this magical journey gave me ?

(a)    For me it is health tourism. As soon as you register for trek you start following your fitness regime seriously, then trekking and thereafter this enthusiasm further continues for few days. So about 2-3 months of vigorous exercise partly compensates for 8-9 months of laziness.

(b)   For 8 days there is no mobile connectivity means you are completely cut off from the artificial and materialistic life you lead in cities. You are in a complete contrasting atmosphere. You meet much simple, contended people that you really rediscover yourself.

I personally feel that as long as you are fit, you should go for these types of heavenly journeys. You can visit Singapore, Malaysia and Europe later in old age. Trekking is not difficult-if you can walk, you can trek.

One can start with trek to Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib to test one’s physical ability to trek and adaptability to high altitudes. I am suggesting this trek as it has facilities like eateries on way, even medical facility at Ghagharia in between and availability of horses to go back and forth, in case one needs.

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    Few of my favourite clicks.....      

Corn hanged for drying

Water stream on way to Sachen

Our Home

On the way to Dzongri

Trail to Dzongri

Colourful Valley

On way to Lamuney

Lamuney Camp from Samiti

Way back to Kokchurang

Wooden Bridge

Support Team

Fauna

Kokchurang-Tshokha Route

Bhakim Bridge

Dzongri Top

View From V1

V1

Farewell Cake