MAGIC AT HAR KI DUN

 Mountains called us again.....this time at HAR KI DUN in UTTARAKHAND. This journey left us awestruck as always. My firm belief was reaffirmed once again that NATURE never fails to surprise you, enchant you, mesmerise you with its beauty. I’ll try to give an account of my wonderful journey but I’m sure that I won’t be able to do justice. You JUST CAN’T DESCRIBE IT IN WORDS.  It’s something that you feel and live and soak in you.  It is after such an experience that you realize what you have been missing in your so called cities.

               Myself and my wife Charoo joined the first batch of INDIA HIKES after the rains (10’th September -17’th September 2016) for this trek. There were 13 members in this trek including us.

Standing L to R:Jarna, Mitesh, Kartik, Ajay, Mohit, Atul, Rahul,Pritesh, Prahalad(guide)

Sitting L to R:     Charoo, Nitisha, Priyanka, Bhavani, Neha 

Abhirup- Our Trek Leader

The group was as usual a very young, chirpy, friendly and energetic one. Abhirup Paul and Prahalad were our trek leader and trek guide respectively. Apart from them were the supporting staffs of cook, kitchen helpers, porters and mules men. Altogether an excellent team...not only jolly and helpful but also experts in their respective fields. For all of them this was not just a job but their passion. This was first trek batch to Har Ki Dun by India hikes after the rains this year.
           

My purpose of writing this blog is not to give you the technical and detailed information of this trek. This you can easily get on INDIA HIKES site (Link to IH site). They have given a very good description with the minutest details. I write blogs like memoirs. This is an account of the experiences of a couple who love walking in wilderness, someone who is head over heals in love with nature, experiences of an non professional trekker. Trek route is from Sankri in Uttrakhand to Maninda Tal (Click to view route)

DAY 1.....DEHRADUN  TO SANKRI (10’th September 2016)

All 13 of us met at DDN station at 6:30 am. Vehicles arranged by India Hikes were waiting for us there. After an informal introduction amongst ourselves, we started for our base camp Sankri. No points for guessing that the journey was a visual treat. It was just a trailer of what we were going to experience in the coming days. After two breaks for breakfast and lunch at places recommended by our driver Lyke Ram Ji, and one break by the River Yamuna and few short breaks for photography, we reached Sankri by 5pm. The journey was a bit bumpy as it is in the mountains but the scenic beauty made up for it. The entire journey was along the river and mountains covered with thick pine forests.

Sankri Hotel

At Sankri we stayed at Hotel Swaragarohini Palace ....a very nice neat and clean place with excellent views. All of us rushed to have bath as it was getting cold and so was the water of the solar heater. After this we had a formal meeting with our trek leader and guide where our documents were collected and other required trek formalities were done.

View from Sankri Hotel

We were briefed about the Do’s And Don’t and other precautions to be taken while on trek. We were all given green bags to put our trash into and also collect the non biodegradable trash on the trail. This is a part of green initiative taken up by INDIA HIKES. They encourage to take back lots and lots of memories of the mountains but leave behind nothing more other than foot prints. We all had an early dinner and went to sleep with dreams of next day.

DAY 2.....SANKRI TO TALUKA TO PUANI GARAAT (11th Sept. 2016)

The best part of our group was that we were all very punctual. This quality of all of us was reflected on the first day itself. All of us were ready perfectly on time. We had our breakfast at the hotel itself and were given packed lunch. Then we all boarded the bus and reached Taluka. Taluka is the place from where our actual trek started. Here we waited for sometime for our mules and supporting staff to come. We utilised the waiting time by doing some warming up exercises and took some snaps. At about 9:30 am. we started for Puani Garaat. We walk along the river Supin throughout the trek. Today we had to walk for 13 kms. The trek is not very steep but for us it is carrying of the backpacks on the first day that made our shoulders cry, which reminded us that we need to exercise more. But this discomfort is very trivial in face of what we get to see there. From Taluka  itself, the red fields of “Ramdana(Chaulai)” greet you. 

Ramdana Plantation

The bright red colour of the plants just make your eyes shine. A dog also joined us from here and was with us till the end of the trek. All of us gave him the name our choice...sheru, kabira and what not.....After sometime we come across a flat grassland which is our first GROUP REST POINT. After a short rest we all proceed further. As the area is landslide prone and ours is the first group after the rains, we come across small land slides where both Abhirup and Prahalad religiously guide us. As this is our first day, they were extra cautious in guiding us even at the easiest of the landslides. At about 1’oclock we reach a place which is besides a  waterfall. We decide to have lunch here as we could wash our hands and refill our water bottles and there was sufficient place for all of us to sit. After lunch we continue our journey both by legs and eyes. Our legs do get tired but not our eyes....Our next GROUP REST POINT is at a tea stall at Gangwad.

House Inserted in cave at Gangwad 

After having tea here we started towards our destination for the day. We reached our campsite by about 5 pm. but our supporting staff was yet to reach ! It’s getting cold and fellow trekkers who did not have fleece jacket with them are now feeling the chill. Soon the staff along with the mules arrived. Abhirup and Prahalad showed us how to pitch the tents. We all with their help pitched the tents. Meanwhile our cook and his helpers set up the kitchen tent and we are served hot steaming kavah. Supporting staff expertly pitched up the dining and toilet tents in no time. We are now informed that our staff got late due to two reasons...firstly they had to take a longer route as mules are unable to jump over the fallen trees and secondly one of our mules had slipped and hurt itself but luckily the mule was not hurt much and so  all is well that ends well. After having a very very tasty dinner of Dal-Chawal, we called it the day and returned to our tents.

DAY 3...PUANI GARAAT to KALAKATIYADHAAR (12’th September 2016)

Today we have to cover a distance of 7 kms. We will be going via Seema. After wake up call, followed by kawah and then breakfast, packed lunch and morning exercise we are all set for the trek. We all unpitched our own tents, packed our sleeping bags (taught to us by Abhirup ) and were ready for the trek. Inhibitions and apprehensions of yesterday (first day of the trek) were all gone and we all were now chatting as long time friends. At village Seema, Prahalad showed us an Atta Chakki where villagers use strength of water to grind the cereals.

Hydraulic Atta Chakki

Today we are encountering more ascents than descents. Walking, taking pics, and after taking numerous short rests, we reach a junction point where one road goes towards HAR KI DUN and other towards OSLA, which is one of the oldest villages of India. It has a beautiful Someshwarnath temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. We’ll be visiting this village on our way back. Just after this junction is a temple of VAN DEVI where we offered our prayers before proceeding further. 

Detouring Due to Landslide

Today we came across two major land slides which were scary but not dangerous. Abhirup and Prahalad expertly guided us in  such a way that it boosted our confidence both in ourselves and in them. They would always motivate us saying that Charoo ji you did it yourself, they were just standing there, guiding us, Hats off to both of them. The trek today was also along the river. It was full of flowers and of course butterflies. Many waterfalls, makeshfit wooden bridges, all made a beautiful scenery. We had our packed lunch at around 1 pm, . As is the tradition in the hills that it rains in the afternoon we were encountering rains off and on. Being the second day of carrying our backpacks, our shoulders had also adjusted well! all of us reached our campsite full of energy, bubbly and in high spirits. Our supporting staff has reached before us and had already pitched up the tents. 

After usual exercise session and a new form of exercise (zuzu---hope I am spelling it right) taught by Prahalad, we settled down for snacks. Macroni as a snack made the eyes of all sparkle....now began the round of informal chatting and pulling each others legs. Good food Good company, envious surroundings....a perfect setting for spending the evening. You cannot ask for more. As it started to drizzle we all gathered in the dining tent to continue our talks. There we played crazy games introduced by Abhirup and the time flew away like anything. We were again served delicious  dinner followed by damn tasty sweetdish. The thought of Shahi Toast still brings water in my mouth.!!!! Now time to say Good Night and all of us retired to our tents.

DAY 4......KALAKATIYADHAARR to HAR KI DUN (13’th September 2016)

Morning started with the usual routine of morning tea, breakfast, taking packed lunch, exercise, unpitching of tents, packing of sleeping bags etc etc.....Todays trek was relatively easy or it was may be because we were more accustomed to walking now. We trekked for  5 kms. The trek literally took us through valley of flowers. We witnessed slopes of mountains covered with bright flowers.

Few among dozens of varieties of flowers

I have been to Valley of flowers and so I can vouch that this was a Mini Valley of Flowers. Apart from different variety of flowers and butterflies we saw many different trees—Bhojpatra, walnut being amongst them. 

On the way to Har Ki Dun with Sheru

Our Orange Homes in background

Today as the distance was not much, we all walked at a leisurely pace taking our own time, taking numerous short and Group Rests even when not needed physically. We reached HAR KI DUN by lunchtime......I was mesmerised by the natural beauty all along the trek route but when we reached HAR KI DUN. I was awestruck...sooooo Beautiful, Serene, Virgin, I am really at loss of words to describe my first reaction on seeing the campsite.. and we are to spend two nights here..... 

Campsite was at 11,700 ft heigth. The campsite is besides the River Maninda. Never in our previous experiences had I seen such a beautiful campsite. Every effort, every pain was worth taking for this place. It’s just Heavenly....neither the photographs nor the words do justice to the actual place. Our supporting staff was already there We had our packed lunch here. After lunch we had the day for ourselves. We explored the area around campsite at HAR KI DUN. Peaks of Swaragrohini, Har Ki Dun 1 2,3, Hataa peak are clearly visible. 

View From Har Ki Dun

DAY 5....HAR KI DUN to MANINDA TAAL and back to HAR KI DUN (14’th September 2016)

Morning Tea at Har Ki Dun

Today was the easiest and most relaxing day of the trek. There was no hurry today but still almost everyone was up early and went for the morning walk. Everyone seemed to capture everything surrounding us either in eyes or camera. Childlike enthusiasm was clearly evident. The peaks we had seen yesterday were now glowing under the morning rays....a completely different view. Having breakfast at riverside reminded me of my childhood school picnics. After the daily routine of breakfast, exercise, we started for Maninda Taal.. 

Maninda Taal

Maninda Taal (at 12,500 ft) is about 3 kms from Har Ki Dun. Trek to Maninda Taal is slight ascent, being picturesque comes without saying. Prahalad was as usual leading the group. Walking at a lesuirely pace  along the river, we reached Maninda Taal. As soon as we reached there, we all dropped our bags and once again relived our childhood. 

The lake was so clear that you could clearly see the stones beneath.All were busy ...clicking pics, standing on small rocks, adventourous ones climbing a difficult huge rock, etc.  The water was freezing cold and stones beneath were pricking us....but almost all of us did this after initial hesitation. After river crossing we headed back to our camp as clouds appeared. We reached our camp in an hour and half . Lunch of steaming hot Rajma-Chawal was awaiting us.

Rajma Chawal Lunch

Sitting on grass by riverside and having such tasty lunch, beats all the five star restaurants....All my trek mates will vouch for it  After lunch we had a short nap in the open.

Rest after lunch

Session of informal chatting and Dumb Charads followed till the evening snack of pasta arrived. Again after tea, it was again time to explore the area. Before dinner we all assembled in dinning tent and rounds of Dumb charads continued till the dinner arrived. After dinner it was time to retire in our tents. Today while going to sleep I felt a twinge of sadness thinking that we’ll be leaving tomorrow morning.

DAY 6....HAR KI DUN to PUANI GARAAT VIA OSLA (15’th Sept. 2016)

Nearly everyone went for morning walk today also. Today was a long trek of about 11 kms. Following the daily routine we all started back at about 8:50am. As we were going by the same route we were more relaxed. On my return journey I concentrated more on flowers nearby than on the scenery far away and realised that there were at least 100 variety flowers. Rain was playing hide and seek but now we had also got used to wearing and taking off our raincoats. 

Beauty Revisited

Beauty Revisited

Coming down was just like revising the beauty we had experienced earlier along with adding new experiences we missed earlier,. We again crossed  the scary landslides. As it was a long route today, and we were a bit slow by trek leaders standard, they decided to take us through a shortcut route. This short cut turned out to be a Paradise. waterfalls were treat to eyes, some close by and many far away.

We were literally making our way through flower bushes and some thorny bushes also. Prahalad showed us a bush which had pea like pods that exploded on just touching them and seeds coming out of them. It was fun trying this...Charoo gave the name PAHARI BOMB to this plant. Prahalad told us the name of that plant but I can’t recall. We took our lunch at the same place where we took while going up. After lunch we proceeded towards OSLA after bravely crossing the scary landslides.

Osla is a nice small village with a unique architecture. Few home stays are coming up for the trekkers. Signs of invasion by city people is clearly visible here. We could spot wrappers of chips, toffees etc on the roads there. Someshwara temple is situated in the middle of the village. A beautiful temple in beautiful natural surroundings with a unique architecture. It has been raining since lunch but now suddenly a massive rainbow appeared in the sky...Verrryyy Beautiful.

Someshwar temple at Osla

We could clearly see the colours of VIBGYOR. Really, Nature always surprises you when you least expect it. From Osla, it is mostly downhill to Puani Garaat.  We were all in a very happy pace moving forward when we came across an extremely scary and dangerous landslide area. It was clearly visible that all of us were scared but not a trace of fear on Abhirup’s and Prahalad's face.  Prahalad in fact commented “WOW! what a landslide”. Without wasting time, they both got into the act of escorting us one by one. After this it was fairly easy downhill walk to Puani Garaat. We reached there at about 6’o clock. Tents and all had been already pitched up. After tea and noodles for snack was the time for informal chat and games in the dinning tent. After dinner was the time to say Good Night. Today was our last night in the tents. Had mixed feelings........

DAY 7.....PUANI GARAAT TO TALUKA TO SANKRI (16’th Sept. 2016)

Today was the last day of our trek. As we had come by the same route we all were very comfortable as we knew no major challenges awaited us. But surprisingly those challenges were no more challenges for us, the trek has made us confident.

We all walked at our own pace taking our own time. Our trek leader and guide were very patient with us. Never rushing though at times we were going just too slow as if not wanting to go back. By 2 o’ clock we reached the open grassland which was our first Group Rest Point while coming. We had our packed lunch here and just kept sitting there. It seemed as none of us was in a hurry to return. But as all good things do come to an end and so was our marvellous trek. After going as slow as possible we reached Taluka by about 5 pm. Lyke Ram ji were waiting there for us with the bus. we all congratulated each other for successfully completing the trek. After an hour or so we were back at Hotel SWARAGAROHINI PALACE . All of again rushed to have bath, after all we were having bath after 5 days. BSNL network was available here. Everyone informed their family members about their well being. After tea and snacks of mixed pakoras we all gathered for the formal closing ceremony of the trek. We all shared our experiences and suggestions regarding the trek. We were given trek completion certificates by India HIKES. According to Charoo, the joy of receiving this certificate was no less than what she experienced receiving her graduation degree. Both gave her a sense of achievement. So this was literally the end of my trek.

DAY 8.......SANKRI to DDN (17’th September 2016)

      Today is officially the last day of the trek. After breakfast we started for Dehradun. We are passing through the same beautiful route but my eyes are still roaming at HAR KI DUN. Now I am back into city life. Network is available and so am I to the office. As soon as the network came my mind automatically reached Mumbai. This was not the case with me only...I noticed everyone busy on their mobile phones...We reached Dehradun at about 5 pm. We were dropped at railway station, the place from where we were picked up  on 10’th morning. OFFICIAL COMPLETION OF THE TREK.

           Some of our trek mates were going back next day, so they checked into their hotels. 9 of us were going by Nanda Devi express today itself. 9 of us spent few more hours together. Had a sumptuous dinner at Doon Darbar—a place recommended by Abhirup. All of us boarded the train at 11;30 pm. This was the end of our  marvellous trek. I would like to come here again in month of April when valley is full of snow.

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Trek Through The Eyes Of the camera !!!!!!!